The days are longer and we’re shedding our winter coats. After spending a long cold winter inside curled up in front of the heater it’s finally time for us to get outside and have fun! Running in the sand chasing Frisbees at the beach, retrieving balls thrown in the back yard, swimming at the lake, hiking up in the mountains, chasing mice and lizards and a myriad of other activities that are so much fun. Unfortunately, when we go out and enjoy all these fabulous things we run a high risk of being exposed to a number of parasites that can not only be a big nuisance to us and our owners but, left unattended, can also be very detrimental to our health and could even be life threatening.

There are many products on the market to help protect us against these pests. Some are available through our favorite pet stores and others that require a prescription are only available through our veterinarians. To decide which product is best for your particular circumstances your owner should discuss parasite control with your veterinarian as some of these products may require prescreening before use or may have age and weight restrictions.

FLEAS are parasites that live on the skin of a host animal and are the most common ectoparasite of dogs and cats in North America. They cannot survive independently and infest a variety of other hosts including rodents, foxes, coyotes, opossums, raccoons, and birds, just to name a few. Fleas can be acquired by an animal being exposed to newly emerged fleas from an infested environment or they can be transferred directly from one host to another.

In addition to the annoyance and itchy skin that fleas cause, common diseases that infested animals experience include tapeworm infestation, flea allergy dermatitis which is the result of the host’s hypersensitivity to flea saliva and, in the case of heavy infestations, iron deficiency anemia and death, particularly in very young animals.

A comprehensive flea-control program should eliminate fleas on pets, eliminate existing environmental infestations, and prevent subsequent reinfestation of both. There are a variety of flea products on the market that kill adult fleas and come in the form of sprays, topical spot-on products, daily or as-needed pills, or monthly pills. Some formulas prevent flea eggs from hatching and kill larvae also.

Preventative flea control should be started as soon after birth as possible and continue for the life of the pet. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s label recommendations for directions on age and dose to be given.

Some of the public health considerations include bubonic plague transmitted from rodent fleas to dogs and cats and may bite humans, the possibility of children ingesting fleas and developing tapeworm, and skin rashes experienced by people in flea infested areas.

TICK infestation in dogs is reported throughout the United States and has been reported to cause disease in both dogs and cats although little is known about the prevalence of infection in cats or the disease manifestations and treatment recommendations for feline infections.

Infection with tick born diseases, the most common of which is Lyme disease, does not occur until approximately 24 to 48 hours after the initial attachment by a tick and the subsequent feeding on a host as it takes that period of time for the organisms to pass across the salivary glands into the host. Direct transmission from an infected animal to a native animal is considered rare.

Several diseases can be spread by ticks and symptoms may vary depending on the specific disease contracted. Symptoms may include fever, depression, anorexia and weight loss. Occasionally neurologic disease, vomiting or diarrhea may be present or even stiffness, swollen joints or reluctance to move. Diagnosis may include the taking a blood sample and performing several tests.

Ticks are active at various times of the year and preventative tick control is recommended all year long. Attached ticks should be removed promptly to prevent transmission of any pathogens being sure to use caution to prevent zoonotic infection and accidental inoculation of agents into the pet. Avoiding tick infested areas and keeping grass and shrubbery closely clipped to discourage both tick and wildlife populations are recommended.

Prevention of human infection relies on prevention of tick bites in people by using specifically labeled repellent products, wearing appropriate attire, performing frequent tick checks and promptly removing any ticks found.

HEARTWORM disease is a serious and potentially fatal condition caused by parasitic worms living in the arteries of the lungs and occasionally in the right side of the heart of dogs, cats and other species of mammals. Dogs and cats of any age or breed are susceptible to infection and heartworm disease has been reported in all 50 states however it is most prevalent in the southeastern states where mosquitoes are a more significant problem.

Heartworm is spread by mosquitoes when they have bitten an infected animal that an adult female heartworm has released her young into the blood stream. The microfilariae, which the mosquito becomes infected with while taking a blood meal, cannot mature into adult heartworms without first passing through a mosquito. From the time a dog or cat is first bitten by an infected mosquito it takes a little over 6 months for the heartworm larvae to mature into adult worms and in the dog these worms can live for up to 7 years.

Recently infected dogs may exhibit no signs of the disease, while heavily infected dogs may eventually show clinical signs, including a mild, persistent cough, reluctance to move or exercise, fatigue after only moderate exercise, reduced appetite and weight loss. Cats may exhibit clinical signs that are very non-specific, mimicking many other feline diseases. Chronic clinical signs include vomiting, gagging, difficulty or rapid breathing, lethargy and weight loss.

Usually, all but the most advanced cases of heartworm disease can be successfully treated in dogs. Currently, there are no products in the United States approved for the treatment of heartworm infection in cats. Cats have proven to be more resistant hosts to heartworm than dogs, and often appear to be able to rid themselves of infection spontaneously.

Prevention for this disease is available through a number of products including once a month tablets and topical applications. Testing for the disease is highly recommended prior to starting a heartworm prevention program and most if not all products must be obtained through your veterinarian.

So, go out and have fun this spring and summer and be sure to tell your owners how to protect you and them from these pesky parasites.

Written with the assistance of Brian J. Golden, DVM & Michele Woods, Vet Tech

Living in the San Diego area, we have all become far too familiar with the fire danger that poses a threat at to us at various times of the year however, even such things as the abrupt power outage we experienced last fall remind us that emergencies can come at any time and in many different and unexpected ways. In all areas of the country there are numerous natural and man-made disasters that can affect us – such as the recent devastating tornadoes that have hit the heartland of our country along with earthquakes, fires, hurricanes, floods, and snow storms, just to name a few. Many of our humans have thought about disaster preparedness and have made plans for themselves but what about all of us – their faithful, loyal and loving companions??? In the hope that we at TokiPoki.com can spread the bark (meow, chirp, etc.) we have developed this basic emergency preparedness plan for the smaller companion animal members of the family.

We compiled the following lists for dogs, cats, birds and small rodents of the basic items that should gathered and kept in a travel kit that can be quickly grabbed in the event the need to evacuate arises. A plastic tote or nylon duffel bag works well for keeping everything in one place and easy to snatch and go. We recommend being prepared to be displaced for a minimum of 7 days.

DOGS

• Extra collar or harness with attached ID tag with name, phone and microchip numbers
• Extra leash
• 2 bowls (for food and water)
• Bottled water
• Food (dry and/or canned -include a can opener & lids, if needed)
• First aid kit (see information below for basic recommended contents)
• Medications regularly taken
• Contact, vaccination, licensing and microchip information – include a recent photo
• Copies of medical records especially if ongoing medical conditions are of concern
• Bedding or blanket
• Crate (soft or hard)
• Disposable bags for cleanup
• Toys

CATS

• Extra collar or harness with attached ID tag with name, phone and microchip numbers
• Extra leash if trained to walk on a leash
• 2 bowls (for food and water)
• Bottled water
• Food (dry and/or canned -include a can opener & lids, if needed)
• First aid kit (see information below for basic recommended contents)
• Medications that are regularly taken
• Contact, vaccination, licensing and microchip information – include a recent photo
• Copies of medical records especially if ongoing medical conditions are of concern
• Bedding or blanket
• Crate (soft or hard)
• Disposable litter tray
• Scoop-able litter
• Disposable bags for cleanup
• Pillowcase
• Toys

BIRDS

• 2 bowls (for food and water)
• Bottled water
• Food
• First aid kit (see information below for basic recommended contents)
• Medications that are regularly taken
• Contact, vaccination and microchip information – include a recent photo
• Copies of medical records especially if ongoing medical conditions are of concern
• Towel to wrap in if necessary
• Blanket to place over cage to keep warm in cold weather or to help reduce stress
• Spray bottle to cool in warm weather
• Travel crate – preferably with a perch
• Paper towels or other bedding for crate
• Disposable bags for cleanup
• Toys

SMALL RODENTS (hamsters, gerbils, mice, rats, guinea pigs)

• Food bowl
• Water bottle (have an extra one also) or bowl
• Food
• Bottled water
• Mediations that are regularly taken
• Contact, vaccination and microchip information – include a recent photo
• First aid kit (see information below for basic recommended contents)
• Secure carrier
• Bedding materials
• Salt lick
• Small hiding box or tube

Remember, these lists contain just the basics – more items can be added.

The basic first aid kit should contain the following items and, of course, other items can be added also.

BASIC ANIMAL FIRST AID KIT

• Owner contact information
• Secondary person contact information (in case owner can’t be reached)
• Veterinarian contact information
• Basic first aid instruction guide
• Bandage scissors
• Tweezers
• Latex or vinyl gloves
• Oral syringes
• Cotton tip applicators
• Vet wrap
• 3” square gauze dressing pads
• 2” gauze bandage rolls
• 2” elasticon bandage wrap
• 1” bandage tape
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Betadine solution
• Betadine scrub
• Antiseptic ointment
• Burn and insect ointments
• Benadryl for allergic reactions (be sure to get dosage amount from your vet in advance)
• Thermal blanket
• Ice and heat packs

As far as food, water and medications are concerned – these items should be rotated out every two months to maintain freshness. Date the containers with the most recent rotation date each time to keep tract of freshness. A 7-day pill container is a convenient item to use for medications and makes it easy to rotate out. The amounts of food, water and medications should be sufficient enough to maintain each animal for a minimum of one week. Usually everyone can either return home or find necessary supplies within that time frame.

Make sure all animals are familiar with their crate and comfortable with being placed in it before an emergency occurs. This is very important as it will greatly reduce the amount of stress you both experience in the event there is limited time within which to evacuate.

A designated caregiver should be chosen in the event the owners are not home to take care of their pets should an emergency arise. There can be a reciprocal agreement to care for the caregiver’s pets as well if they have any. A person should be chosen that lives close by, is familiar with the animals, is capable enough and willing to care for them, has access to the home (so they should be trusted enough to give them a set of keys) and shown where the emergency evacuation kit is located.

Be sure a place has been prearranged for family members to meet – preferably someplace that will accept pets. If they do not accommodate pets your veterinarian may have a list of preferred boarding kennels and facilities to care for them. Also local animal shelters may accept animals during emergencies so contact them to find out whether or not they do.

Remember, we all know our humans love us and want to be sure we are taken care of but sometimes they just get busy and forget to plan for the unexpected. We can all do our part by gently nudging and reminding them that preparing ahead of time will greatly reduce the stress on everybody that occurs when an emergency situation arises and we have to evacuate our home.

Written with the assistance of Brian J. Golden, DVM & Michele Woods, Vet Tech

Thanksgiving, Hanukkah, Christmas, Kwanzaa, New Year’s… everyone gets caught up with the excitement, flurry of activity and stress involved with all the travelling, cooking, shopping, gift wrapping, tree decorating and holiday preparations. But what about all us pets – where do we fit in? We also feel all the excitement and know something is going on. Some of us want to be part of it and enjoy all of the festivities but others are scared and anxious about all this celebration and abnormal happening. This time of year can be just as scary as it can be fun. Here are some of the things that you pet owners should be aware of to make the holidays safe for all of us.

Let’s discuss the top holiday dangers to pets.

• Holiday Foods – The ones people are most aware of are chocolate and anything sweetened with xylitol but what about unattended plates of food and unsecured trash cans. When we overeat, eat things we aren’t used to, get a hold of chicken or turkey bones, or eat foods that are spoiled we can easily get pancreatitis or blockages in our digestive tract. Don’t leave food laying around where we can easily get to it.
• Unattended Alcoholic Drinks – Adult holiday beverages need to be picked up and placed where we can’t get to them. Alcohol can cause us to become weak, ill and we may even go into a coma, possibly resulting in death from respiratory failure. Watch where you and your friends are putting these drinks!
• Floral Arrangements and Yuletide Plants – Holly, mistletoe, poinsettia, and lilies, just to name some of the more common ones can cause severe nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, gastrointestinal upset, cardiovascular problems, or kidney failure. Choose a pet-safe bouquet or opt for silk or plastic artificial plants to decorate for the season.
• Christmas Trees, Ornaments and Tree Water – Be sure to securely anchor the tree so it doesn’t tip and fall on us. Broken glass ornaments or that sparkly tinsel that kitties love to play with can be ingested by us and cause all sorts of gastrointestinal problems such as an obstructed digestive tract, severe vomiting, dehydration and possible surgery. And those additives used for the tree water may contain fertilizers plus stagnant water is a breeding ground for bacteria, both of which can cause us stomach upset, nausea or diarrhea, so cover up that water reservoir under the tree.
• Electrical Cords – Keep wires and batteries out of reach. Wires can deliver a potentially lethal electrical shock and a punctured battery can cause burns to the mouth and esophagus.
• Holiday Candles – Unattended lit candles can burn pets or cause a fire if they are knocked over. Place candles in spots we can’t reach and remember to put candles out if you’re leaving the room for your safety as well as ours.
• Ribbons and Wrappings – All those ribbons, bows and other ornaments used to decorate packages can be a feline’s dream but also the most risky for their safety as they can get stuck in the intestines, often necessitating surgery. Make sure to discard bows and ribbons immediately.
• Firecrackers and Other Loud Holiday Noises – Keep in mind as the New Year rings in that many pets are scared by all those loud noises you humans make. If we panic, we want to run away from them and might escape from the yard. Make sure we’re in a safe place and all gates are securely locked during the festivities.
• Put Away Medications – Be careful that you or guests staying with you for the holidays put your medications up where we can’t reach them.

One of the things you can do to be sure we are kept safe is to provide us with a room or safe area of our own – a place we can retreat to, have fresh food and water, and a comfortable bed to snuggle in. Those of us who might be shy may prefer to have our space available to sneak into or a piece of furniture to hide under. If we are normally kept outside, you should think about letting us stay in the garage in a confined area or crate where we can be dry, safe and sheltered from some of the activities or noise.

Remember, we want to enjoy the holidays as much as you do and by keeping our safety in mind it may prevent you and us from having to make an unexpected and expensive visit to the vet.

Written with the assistance of Brian J. Golden, DVM & Michele Woods, Vet Tech